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Saturday, September 1, 2012

Lunch in Lovely Lugo

Entertaining myself trying to stay up until it's dark outside! Almost 9 and still light out there. I'm sure I'll enjoy it later in the week, but boo for now!

I flew from Madrid to Santiago and was then supposed to take a bus to Lugo. However, I didn't check the bus schedule before I booked my flights, and my 1 p.m. arrival was a near miss for the 12:55 p.m. bus. The next bus wasn't until 4. I've been nursing a cold all week, and the idea of sitting at the airport for three hours...and then riding a bus for two and getting to Lugo at 6 p.m. made me want to cry. I was so exhausted, and even though I knew I wouldn't let myself nap, I knew I'd feel much better knowing I was settled into the hotel. So, I coughed up entirely too much cash to take a cab! The guy drove like a race car driver, and I think it was barely over an hour. Score.

Once in Lugo, I headed out to explore. According to Wikipedia (is there any other source?), Lugo is the only city in the world to be surrounded by intact Roman walls. I walked the entire perimeter (about 2k) and enjoyed the variety of views. Some of the hillside spots looking into the countryside were gorgeous -- I can't wait to see more on my walks.

I'm dying to know more about the story behind's an ancient city that's obviously had lots of ups and downs. There is a striking contrast between impeccably restored historic building and dilapidated, graffiti-covered ones. (Not unlike Rio...or, quite frankly, Quincy!) I'm really curious what people do for work here and how they've experienced Spain's recession.

Anyway, I treated myself to a late lunch knowing it would likely be my only meal of the day. I HAD to try the famous pulpo gallego, tender octopus with smoky paprika (or at least that's what this rendition was...not sure if "gallego" refers to the preparation or the way they tenderize it...or maybe their octopii are just more tender?). I also got mejillones, a vocabulary word that escaped me, but the waitress promised they were popular. Mussels with tomato sauce. So good!! And, I had two delicious pieces of country bread rubbed with ripe tomato and garlic, and topped with anchovies. Yum!

Lugo seems to be quite a hotspot for weddings...I saw three!

Tomorrow morning I meet my fellow walkers at 10 a.m. This hotel has wi-fi, which may not be the case everywhere we stop. I'm trying to avoid roaming charges on my phone, so I'm sticking to free access. So, hopefully there will be lots of pics along the way, but here are a few from the first day!

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